||Three O’Clock rock is the easiest
to reach of all Darrington crags and a good place for a first visit
to the area. Reach it via the old Eightmile Creek trail,
from a trailhead departing a wide spot in the road, about six miles
up Clear Creek from the Mountain Loop Highway on forest road #2060
(the parking area comes about a half mile beyond a fork in the road
– stay on the main road, to the right). As of June 2012,
the road is easily passable to this point in a normal automobile.
After forty minutes of hiking, the trail leaves the woods and crosses an
overgrown boulder field; among the boulders, a side trail depart up left to
the Big Tree routes and continues further left to the Arch area. The
main trail continues on past the North Buttress, passes near "Four O'Clock
rock, and continues on up to Squire Creek Pass).
Three O’Clock Rock has a great variety of routes. Many good climbs are
not shown here, including Masters of the Universe (5.11a), near the south end of
the rock. Some old classics still retain the original Darrington runouts, including
Shot in the Dark (5.10d), The Rash (5.6), and Big Tree One (5.6). Other climbs
are pretty well protected with a combination of gear and bolts.
Several enjoyable climbs are found here with modern anchors, including
Tidbits (5.10b), Gastroblast (5.10a), Under the Bored Walk (5.7),
Till Broad Daylight to the third belay of The Kone (5.8), The Kone
in its entirety (5.9), and Cornucopia (5.9) (the first pitch is a good 5.6 lieback).
Bushy Galore (5.7) would be a poor choice
Beanberry Delight (5.7) cannot be found. However, Silent
Running (5.9+ to the 5.10b last pitch), and Total Soul (5.10b or
5.10d) are excellent climbs. Another good climb, Ginsu,
is further up the trail on “Four O’Clock Rock.”
Descents are by 50m rappels.
Arch Area (pdf