||Green Giant Buttress has several
routes though Dreamer is the most famous.
Drive about two miles past the Three O’Clock Rock trailhead
on a rough road that is barely passable in a normal automobile
to where there
is room to turn around and the road deteriorates (some will drive
1/4 mile further).
Follow the overgrown extension of this road,
then drop to an old mining road and follow it to where it ends
at a side-stream. Cross the side-stream, bear left and follow
the main creek to a three tiered waterfall. Just above the base
of the falls, a gully leads into the bush on the right, and it
soon opens a bit and climbs to the slabs below Green Giant Buttress.
Stay right as you start up these slabs, scrambling to the highest
erect tree among scattered bushes on the apron below the steeper part
of the buttress.
The “walk off” on the backside
is rather unfriendly and most parties rappel the route, a complex
process requiring two ropes, providing ample opportunity to get
a rope stuck behind a flake and frequently resulting in a tangle
with other parties.
Notes on Dreamer
Dreamer (5.9) is deservedly popular. However, while only
moderately difficult by modern technical standards, it is ten pitches
surprisingly challenging. The original start of Dreamer has
been replaced by two better alternatives: (1) from a blocky ledge
just above the highest of the small trees on the “apron” beneath
the Buttress, climb up to an anchor, hidden from below, and Dreamer
Direct (5.7) leads to Urban Bypass (5.10b) and rejoins Dreamer
at the top
of the old fourth pitch; (2) from the same blocky ledge, scramble
right then 180 feet up to the base of the Botany 101 dihedral,
where two pitches of Safe Sex (5.8) lead to the old third belay
The two 5.9 pitches high on the route involve challenging face and
crack climbing that wanders around overhanging flakes set to snag the rope:
long runners and careful rope management are mandatory. Many
climbers have difficulty here but these are spectacular pitches
and are followed by three enjoyable pitches leading to the summit
of the rock (the current finish does not follow the original line
but the anchors are good and tales of mind-boggling run-outs are
over ten years out of date).
Green Giant Buttress has other good climbs which should
not be overlooked – especially if there are multiple parties on
Dreamer you when you
get there. Good climbing will be found on Urban By-Pass
(5.10b), Safe Sex (5.8), and Boomerang (5.11a). The Fast Lane (5.11
b or 5.10c A3), is not climbed very often and would certainly prove
quite an adventure – please send details if you climb it. In
its original incarnation, Botany 101 would not make a pleasant
outing. At present, Giant’s Tears is not recommended.
Sex/Urban By-Pass (pdf file 32k)